Tortugas Trip, Gulf of Mexico.
Rhein, Araby Maid, U2513, Oil Wreck, Baja California

100 miles North of the Dry Tortugas May 2003

I had been waiting and waiting and holding my breath for this trip.    I was sure something would go wrong but somehow I managed to end up getting to dive it.

I arrived at the marina in plenty of time at about 8:30pm.  My buddy was already there fiddling with gear in her truck.   The capt was nowhere to be seen yet so I joined her and fiddled with my gear as well.    There is always something to be fixing even at the last minute.

The weather was very hot and humid but with very little wind.    As always it was much easier to load up the boat when you are full of excitement and anticipation for the dives ahead.   We placed one set of doubles each inside in the cabin, plus our second set of deco bottles,  and the gear we were planning to use the next morning was set up on deck.   My tanks were completely stuffed with 15/70!!.

We set out on a glassy sea, and after having one discreet beer we headed for bed.     As usual it was a mountaineering feat climbing over the tanks to get to our bunks :-).    There are two sets of bunks up in the bow the top one being a 1/2 bunk.    We told Joe that we were smaller than him and he should sleep in the top bunk, but being the ultimate gentleman he spend several minutes wriggling and worming his way into the top 1/2 bunk,  amongst a pile of fishing rods and dangling fishing weights swinging merrily by his nose.   H and I tried but could not stifle several large bellows of laughter as we watched..

I woke early, but heard nobody moving around and we were still motoring along, so I snuggled back into my bunk for a few minutes.    It was impossible to stay there,  it was just far too exciting so I popped up and hung out on deck for a little while.  Gradually one by one the gang appeared on deck, each with their own idea of what breakfast food should be.   Joe claimed that he had been dreaming all night that he was a fish,  I can't imagine why ;-)...   And Mike had a couple of the approximate two dozen "hot pockets" that he had brought for the trip!!!!

Diving the Rhein
Tortugas Saturday May 24th 2003
Depth 250, to the deck 200fsw
Pretty soon we were ready to dive and about this time the other boat in the group,  carrying a second group of four divers arrived at the site :-).   H. and I dropped in first as deck space is pretty much limited to gearing up two divers at a time.      We were greeted by a mild current as we scootered down  and as we got closer to the wreck the visibility was rather disappointingly reduced.    I had been expecting at least 100ft vis, as I had experienced on the previous trip.    The plan for this first  dive was to scout out the wreck in it's entirety and then get oriented so that we could go back and look in more detail on our second dive of the day.    

The Rhein is quite a large wreck, with an enormous profile.    There is also a  tremendous amount of growth which makes it look very pretty.     The two huge posts standing up amidships are incredibly tall, and must reach up as shallow as 150ft.    It is a weird feeling passing these posts on the way down.      As before the fish seemed so enormous compared to those we find on my local dives, but I was disappointed not to see my friend the GIANT hogfish from last year.    I was told later that he had been captured by a spearfisherman on another boat a while back.    Due to the lower visibility it was quite gloomy and hard to get oriented.   We pretty much scootered the perimeter of the wreck, then checked out a couple of the cargo holds.   The sides of the ship are full of rectangular holes that lead into one of the cargo holds.      After this we swam towards the crushed and more destroyed section of the ship.   Carefully we entered the interior,  and picked our way slowly through the maze of beams and fallen doorways and walls.   This end of the wreck was really fallen in.    Above my head I could see a clear way up to the outside, and as we were not finding anything very exciting in the rubble and thinking of all those tons of bending metal above my head was beginning to give me the creeps,  we exited out onto the deck.    Shortly after my buddy gave me the signal to end the dive.  We had reached the end of our planned 30 minutes.      As we were ascending I saw some of the other divers out and about on the wreck, and as we completed our decompression we were joined at intervals by each group as they finished their dives.

We passed our surface interval swimming back and forth between the two boats and generally socializing and having a fun time, but it hardly seemed any time at all before we were ready to get back in the water.    This second time I dived with Mike and Joe,  as an "assistant porthole gatherer" :-),  I'm not sure I knew what I was getting into.      The best analogy I can use to describe this dive is "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride"!!!!  We had alot of places to go and things to see, and only 25 minutes to cram it all in.   We zoomed at top speed allover the wreck.  First stop was to find a porthole that was lying off the side of the wreck in the sand.  Mike swooped down on it and then I helped him finish the job filling up the lift bag.  then  Joe showed me where to find the piles of melted beer bottles and we managed to gather three intact ones that went in my goody bag.    Then we swooped into the superstructure where Mike knew of another porthole.   This time I had to hold the scooters and other stuff while Mike and Joe liberated the porthole from it's mouldering surroundings.    By this time we were running very short on time and we zoomed back to the line and quickly donned our remaining gear, racing against the clock.   Although we all had plenty of gas to take additional time, we all knew that we were working with specific gas and time limits to ensure we could easily make our third dive of the day.   I learned a great deal on this dive, even though it seemed to me to be faster than the speed of light.  It never ceases to impress me how these guys can get such a detailed knowledge of the wreck layout and where everything is, in such a short amount of time.  I am still in kindergarten when it comes to learning what to look for and spotting important nautical items.   However next time I will be bringing my own toolkit!!

Diving the Araby Maid
Tortugas May 24th 2003
Depth 210,
Finally our third dive of the day.   Originally we had planned to dive just before sunset so that we would have a little light on the wreck but this was not to be, and four of us entered the water together under the cover of full darkness and dropped down the line.    What a spectacular sight the wreck was.     Somehow at night it seems that everything is so much more colourful in the artificial lighting and the wreck was a maze of lights as we all zoomed around on it.     There were fish everywhere, and we even spotted a moray eel hiding in amongst the debris.  This was to be a short dive of 15 minutes only, and sadly those minutes were up way too soon.   On this third dive of the day deco seemed endless, and I could almost see my bunk calling to me up above :-).    Tired but happy we all finally clambered back into the boat,  almost too tired to hang out for a while we hit our bunks pretty fast.  Wow what a day it had been!!

May 25th 2003
Early next morning  H and I made our second visit to the Araby Maid,  again we were in the water first and scootered happily down.     I am still convinced that this wreck is my favorite one of the trip, it is older and just smells of history and stories.    It sits upright and the shell of the wreck is actually still intact.    The top  deck and most of the superstructure is gone, leaving a large framework of beams below which lies the lower deck.   This is totally fascinating since you can still see a great deal of the wooden floorboards in place and the wood is very apparent.      There is a large section of the hull completely misssing forming a large break.    This was the damage inflicted by being rammed by another ship.     The mast is fallen and laying off to one side with it's tip pointed down into the sand.      There is also a fairly large debris field around the area of the mast.    We spent some of the dive retrieving what we thought were brass rings used as part of the rigging, but Mike told us later that they were simply steel cable loops, and with a grin showed us how to tell the difference.   Yet another lesson on what to look for :-).   Alas our time is always too short and without a doubt  I could have handled a third dive on this wreck.

 Diving the U2513
Tortugas May 25th 2003
Our next date was with a submarine, and we set out to move over to the dive site.  However on the way we spotted a large group of dolphins,  just hanging out and asking us to play with them.    Of course who could resist and we all grabbed our mask & fins and abandoned ship within 5 minutes.   Mike having the foresight to bring his video camera.     It was a totally fascinating experience.   We could hear the dolphins underwater and you could almost see them conversing with one another, as if with their noses.    The seemed to enjoy our company for a little while and then get bored,   I found I could hold their interest for a little longer if I dived down a few feet, they would then swim over and challenge me coming tantalizingly close but never quite close enough to touch my outstretched hands.    As they swam off we continued to move the boat close to them and then they would come back and play for a little while.     I also learned at this point that it is quite easy to scooter in your bathing suit, and we popped the scooters in the water to see if they wanted to play some  more with us.    One seemed to follow Joe around right behind him as he zoomed along.     There is one small problem though,  if you do this wear a tight bathing suit otherwise it will get blown off in the propwash instantly =:-o....  Finally we realized that if we didn't get a move on we would not make the sub so we quickly got back underway, leaving our playmates to themselves.

The U2513 was the last of the deeper dives of the trip, resting at about 215ft.   H had never dived a sub before so we explored it from end to end.     Out from the sub just laying in the sand are a bunch of what look like torpedoes and there are simply loads of them just laying all around in several spots.   They are torpedo shaped and had a covered prop looking thing at one end.    Looked like a good imitation of a farallon scooter to me ;-).   I spent some time blowing the sand away from one with my scooter to uncover it and get a better look!!   I was truly fascinated but I can tell you that I stayed away from touching or moving that thing.  Well you never know!!!    As we moved around we passed Mike and Joe setting up their gear on the top of the sub,  working on one of their special projects :-).    Pretty soon it was time to go and H gave me the thumb and we left. 

    Decompression on these dives is really spectacular, there are fish allover the place, and many many curious jacks.    On this particular dive I had a real surprise,   I was quietly just hanging there and a big fish bumped right into me from behind,  I nearly jumped out of my skin, and then to make matters worse it swam right by my face.     My first reaction was to punch it out of the way with my fist thinking it was going to attack me.    On closer inspection I saw that it was really a fish in trouble and had a huge fishing weight hanging down from it, and the poor thing was ailing fast trying to swim with the weight attached.     It did the rounds bumping into the various divers until eventually Mike thought it was asking him for help and got hold of it by the weight and released it from it's anchor,  it swam away happily after that. 

 Night Diving the Oil Wreck
145 fsw
Tortugas, May 25th 2003
Three of us set off for our long awaited night dive on the Oil wreck.  No scooters this time, just swimming and with only one deco bottle it was very relaxing :-).     The only problem was that the visibility was just terrible on the wreck something like 5 ft.   As we reached the bottom of the line I could hardly tell that it was lying on the upturned hull, and only when we moved it down to the sand was I able to orient myself.  It felt as though I was diving into a muddy ditch.     We attached a flashlight to the hook and then gingerly explored the wreck a little in a straight line alongside.     After about 15 minutes of checking out the wreck and the large fish we started to return.     Suddenly out of nowhere Mike suddenly drew back and popped out of a hole followed by a really big and very Pi@#$#ed off turtle,  I had just a split second to turn my body to one side and block the blow with my upper arm.    If I hadn't moved it would have hit me head on.    At first the guys were wondering if I was alive, but then after I emerged in one piece from the large cloud of silt stirred up by the collision  there was a great deal of chuckling and I am sure a few masks filled up with water.     After this we figured it was about this time to end the dive, and we made our way back to the anchor light and left.     It is a strange feeling decompressing in the dark way out there in the middle of the ocean,  but on this occasion we were joined by a whole bunch of those red wiggly worms that seem to find our HID lights so fascinating.    There were also quite a few irridescent squid hanging about as well. 

We climbed back on deck, stowed our gear for the next day and got comfortable.  This time nobody was ready to crash right away and we spent a great time with the crew catching and eating  tuna fish and having fun while just hanging out on the bow.    The sea was completely flat calm, and a few of us decided to bring our sleeping bags up outside and sleep on deck.    I was awoken by Joe in the middle of the night who had decided to go back below into the AC but wanted to let me know where he had gone in case I thought he had rolled off the bow while asleep!!!, but I am sure I would have heard :-). 

Diving the Oil Wreck
Tortugas May 26th 2003
Depth 145,
  
Up early the next day we had to be in the water quickly to get two dives in and make it back to the dock by early evening.    H and I hit the water without our scooters and just lazily toured around the wreck.      The wreck is almost turtled and full of huge jewfish and turtles.   We popped inside for a while to see what was what, and to try to find out just where all those big fish were hiding.    The visibility was not great on the wreck but you could see the huge shadows of the fish as they passed by, not afraid of divers at all.   

tDiving the Baja California
Tortugas May 26th 2003
Depth 110,
  
Well the time for our last dive rolled around.    This was the Baja California, and the shallowest wreck of the trip.    Although we had been working with a wounded compressor taking huge lengths of time to refill the tanks, we had waited patiently until all four sets were ready.   Swimming down the line we arrived to view the large deck gun sitting tilted onto one side.   I made my way around the side of the hull and rounded the corner to see a sight that I had never seen while diving before.    It was a real live dolphin, just a single one on his own.    I barely caught sight of it as it flipped it's tail and disappeared as quickly as it had arrived, never to be seen again.    I was truly amazed to have seen such a thing.    I wanted to grab H and get her attention to show her but by that time he was long gone.    We quickly moved on to the remains of the cargo hold which if you look hard enough  contains large quantities of interesting medicine bottles that were part of the original cargo.    I came up with an old vick bottle which still had a quantity of vick in it,   a small white medicine bottle and a blue glass bottle that was clearly part of a set.    Mike found one of it's partners :-).   H found a large brown looking medicine bottle.     We spent quite a long time on this wreck none of us wanting to leave and end our dive trip of course.   

Epilogue
We arrived back at the dock at a very reasonable hour, something like 5:00pm I think,  and set about the onerous task of unloading the boat.     It was stiflingly hot and very very humid,   not a pleasant task at all.     A far different chore than three days earlier when we had loaded up full of excitement and anticipation.

As we were finishing up,  the guys generously decided to give H and I the portholes we had found :-).   Believe me I took them up on the offer immediately.    It was my first porthole, and I really did not care just how smelly the ride home in the car would be with it for company.    That is the trouble with SUV's for dive vehicles,  you have to live with your wet smelly gear and portholes all the way  home :-).  As I got close to home  I stopped to  pick up my younger daughter who had spent the weekend with friends at Busch Gardens.    You should have seen the look on her face as her bedraggled, very grubby looking and obviously eccentric  Mum proudly showed off the contents of the trunk (one huge oyster encrusted porthole) to her teenage friends... it was too funny.

This was one of the best weekends of diving I had ever spent,   the dives were fantastic each one a lifetime experience on its own,  and the company was awesome as well.   What more could I have wished for..... I can't really think of anything much that could top that.   Thanks everyone for diving with me :-) and thanks for the porthole.

Note:  Porthole pics will go here when I have it properly preserved :-).